September 29, 2015
We are at again for our third project for the ThReD and Needle sewing group. This time we are taking on a new challenge of making DENIM JEANS! I think that this challenge will not only be fun but will be a lesson for all of us! I am posting some of my favorite links to tutorials, silhouettes that are trending this season, fabric options and other details that might be important for us to get started on this adventure.
Fit, topstitching details, hardware, fabric selections, and techniques are going to critical for us to make jeans that look professional and off-the-rack! We have a lot to learn and teach with this next one! I am ready and SEW excited! There are a variety of skill levels in the group…I think that this challenge will be perfect for all of us.
You might be asking yourself, there are so many jeans and denim pants that are available in the retail mass market…why would you make your own? To some extent, I agree. I can go to The Gap or Banana Republic and pick up a great pair of basic denim jeans anytime. They will fit fine and work well with most of what’s in my wardrobe…and I will own them for several seasons. However, who does not want a pair of jeans with an impeccable fit and details that are specific to your needs? I know that I do. I am always on the hunt for a perfect fitting pair of jeans. I love a great pair of pants that don’t sit too low on my rump (lol) or have a crouch that is too low or waistband that is too big (or too small). Even the most basic silhouette could lack some of the fit quality that could be built into making your own.
CLEAN, BASIC SILHOUETTES
There are so many fashion forward silhouettes that are EXTREMELY pricey that could be duplicated. I absolutely HATE IT when I want to wear a trendy silhouette and I cannot find them in the right fit or the price is not right. A few trends that are happening in denim right now are flare legs, skinny, culottes, and I even found some bedazzled and embellished styles.
Whether cropped or heel height, one of my favorite shapes that works well for any sized women is the flare silhouette. I love this silhouette because it actually slims your thighs by fitting the thigh and flaring at the leg. Balancing the top and bottom of the leg. (Trust me this is a great shape for those of us with not-so thin thighs and legs :)!) I recently posted an off-the-rack version HERE.
SKINNY and DISTRESSED
I am a LOVER of a great pair of distressed jeans that look worn and like they have been in your closet forever! Depending on the type of denim that I decide to make for this project, I might consider some distressing details. There are a lot of great post and tutorials that show how to make the perfect pair of distressed denim. I like the following post HERE and HERE. If you know of any others…please let me know.
The denim culotte is a trendy silhouette. This shape could either be REALLY right or REALLY wrong! Styling and fit play a critical role in wearing this shape. I think that it is a great shape, if you are thin and tall. A woman who is curvy and/or short can also pull this off. With the right proportions and fit, this shape could easily could be a universal fit. Making your own would be the perfect opportunity to make them fit your body. By cutting them with extra room in the derriere or cutting them in an ideal length and width you could make the perfect fit. Would you wear a denim culotte?
Why not try a pair of bedazzled jeans for a fashion piece this season. I found the above online. I do not have much more to say other than that they are FAB! My favorites would be the camo sequined pair and the front bedazzled pair!
Snaps, grommets, thread choice, and topstitching details are all things that will make them look either factory made or handmade. Second to the fabric, I think that the details are the most critical of what goes into making a perfect pair. There is a great post on ALL of the details of making denim HERE. The post is mostly related to the Ginger Jean…but could be translated for any denim pattern. There is some great information on adding details in this post.
1) Lighter Weight – Black Wash HERE 2) Italian Stretch Denim 17oz HERE 3) Stretch Denim Dark Wash HERE 4) Blue Denim – 7.1 oz HERE 5) High Stretch Denim 8.2oz HERE 6) Super Stretch Denim (on sale NOW) HERE 7) Denim Blue Solid Denim HERE 8) Indigo Blue 9.5 oz HERE 9) Stretch Denim Heavy Weight – Navy Blue 10.2oz HERE 10) Italian Stretch Marine Blue 10.2 oz HERE 11) Medium Blue Striped Heavyweight Denim HERE 12) Miami Stretch Denim 6.0oz HERE
Fabric, in my opinion, is the MOST IMPORTANT detail to consider. The right denim that won’t grow on you after your first hour or so of wearing them is key. The Ginger Jean post HERE details sourcing fabric and what to look for when buying denim fabric. As a fabric lover…I LOVE this post! She does a great job breaking down the preferable weights of the fabric (in ounces) and type of wovens. She references the Ginger jean…but again this information is relevant for any jean pattern. Posted above, are some fabric options that I thought would be a great starting point in fabric options. I have selected a few in black and blue options. The blue denim options in the ready to wear marketplace, have a true blue undertone (in both light and dark washes). I have also linked a variety of weight options.
1) Ginger Jean (never tried it…but there is a lot of detailed information available to reference). HERE to purchase. 2) Burda 6798 HERE. Youthful, relaxed boyfriend silhouette 3) Burda 6907 HERE. Shown on the pattern in other fashion woven colors…but could easily be made in a light to medium weight denim. 4) Burda B7050 HERE. Love the flare leg view of this pattern. Some added stitch details with some denim hardware, this should be an easy pattern to construct. 5) McCalls M6610 HERE. Shown in colored denim on the pattern, but in a blue denim fabric, this would be another easy pattern option. 6) Butterick B5682 HERE. Offers the full range of silhouettes. Silhouettes can be altered to make more of a flared silhouette or make the slimmer silhouettes slimmer. 7) Vogue V8774 (out of print pattern) HERE Great slim and flare options. 8) Vogue V1204 HERE (out of print and showing as out of stock)…I am sure that this pattern could be found on Etsy.com or Ebay.com 9) Simplicity 1696 HERE, is not a denim jean pattern. However, with a few tweaks, this pattern could be altered to a denim style. This pattern would be great for developing fit.
Any pant pattern can be made with denim fabric (depending on the weight and added details). I selected a few that are ideal for any skill set. If you have any other suggestions that I might have missed, please let me know and list them in the comments section.
Stay tuned while we work on our custom denim jeans! We will be posting our completed projects on October 31st. You can check out our projects HERE.
(I am not endorsing any patterns in particular….only suggesting patterns that might spark your interest…)